This morning we set out to explore Yokohama, the city where Yoshie lives. Though a suburb of Tokyo, it’s also the third-largest city in Japan. We set off on the train with just Margaret, Yoshie, and I, but over the course of the day we gradually met up with other group members.

Yoshie had told us we were in luck, because Yokohama is known for its roses, and we were here in prime rose season. We went to an amazing garden, all free and maintained by volunteers, where we were surrounded by bursting blooms on all sides. Photos don’t really do it justice, but it was lovely strolling along with lush paths and under the rose-laden arbors. We came across a whole procession of people with tiny, elaborately-styled dogs in baby carriages, lined up waiting for professional photographs to be taken. The garden was also along the coastline, so we could see the harbor and the Yokohama skyline on the far side. The harbor breeze was a relief, because the day was quite hot. (Most Japanese women carry double-layer umbrellas to shield themselves from the sun — maybe that’s why they all look so young.)

By lunchtime most of our group was back together, and we headed to lunch. Yokohama

Creepy dogs

has Japan’s largest Chinatown, and it was a great place for both a meal and a stroll. We went through the elaborate gatemarking the entrance, and walked down narrow streets lined with Chinese shops and restaurants, paper lanterns hanging overhead. We had an excellent “lunch set” meal, containing soup, dumplings, an entree, rice, and dessert for about $6, in our own private room in the restaurant. Afterward we went around the corner to see an elaborate temple, with colorful dragons carved into every corner of the exterior. We came across a group of Japanese middle school students who chatted with us for a bit (they were just starting to learn English) and posed for a photo.

Right down the street was yet another beautiful rose garden, bursting with blooms. We took a quick stroll through then went to the nearby ship terminal. The top of the building is a small park where you can see nice views of the harbor. This is a major stop for cruises, and is built to accommodate large ships, but there were none here today.

In the afternoon we traveled to the government offices of nearby Machida. We were introduced to a few of the government officers (I can’t remember what their title was), and sat in the room where their city council meets. It felt more like a visit to Congress, with a room full of desks for each member with microphones and voting buttons. We were able to ask questions about how their system works and what challenges they’re facing. Apparently the biggest problem right now is drastic population decline. The man speaking to us said that in his birth year, 70 years ago, there were 7500 babies born in the city — and last year it was under 3000. Young people are not getting married at very high rates. Based on what we’ve gathered about the system here (men are required to goout drinking with their boss until all hours, while women go home after work to take care of children and the house), it’s somewhat understandable to us why more of the women aren’t signing up! Machida, like everywhere in Japan, is having to close and consolidate schools. (This was somewhat counterintuitive to us, because we saw hordes of schoolchilden EVERYWHERE. If there were three times as many, I’m not sure how the trains and streets could accommodate them!)

It was then time for the welcome party, a dinner buffet in the same building. We met many more of the West Tokyo Friendship Force members, and enjoyed delicious food and drink. This club has a ukelele group who have been meeting together for the past couple of years. About 13 members gave us a lovely concert of ukelele music and singing. As in Nara, they had learned a mixture of Japanese and American music. (Edelweiss is a big hit here! Everyone can sing along.) As with Nara, we’re so impressed by the spirit of the people in this club — even those at pretty advanced ages cheerfully took on the challenge of learning a new musical instrument.