Time enough for fish and chips

Stuffed puffins in a souvenir shop in Reykjavik

The last day of a trip always brings its own special pressures — usually in the form of a plane we have to get on before it takes off and the multiple hurdles we have to jump to get there.

This year there was an extra hurdle:  We had to submit to a Covid test before the US would let us back in.  Jen had appointments for tests all set set up, and she also arranged for an early evening flight so we would have time to experience a little of Reykyavik before leaving iceland.

And, we were well set-up for the day.  Our slightly-sketchy-from-the-outside-but-really-nice-on-the-inside hotel was a short drive to our main stomping ground for the day: downtown Reykjavik.

 

Smoked puffin on a menu in downtown Rejkyavik

Before we headed out in the moring, there was a little jostling to do, moving belongings that had become loose in the back of the car back into our suitcases, adjusting things so that we could get as much in our checked bag (and as little in our carry-ons) as possible, clearing out all the cupholders of Werther’s wrappers and napkins.  This is all prep-work for the final goal of getting ourselves on the right plane at the right time, and the prep-work has to start early on departure day.

We should note that the parents of this operation have been pretty good at getting ourselves up at a reasonable hour — 6:30- 7 am, local time — and we were able to take care of most of our shufflng and packing without disturbing the girls’ sleep.   Like several nights on this trip, we were sleeping five to a room.

What we weren’t able to do today was find coffee, save for a jar of instant grounds in the communal kitchen on our floor.  Prep-work today would have to be performed without the aid of caffeine, though there was the stimulating smell of a bacon factory a few blocks away as we roamed around in a fruitless search for a cafe.  Sadly, there did not seem to be a direct sales outlet attached to the bacon factory.

On the rainbow road in the heart of the tourist district

Caffeine-deprived and bacon-starved as we were, we all were sufficiently packed and in the car by 10 am.  A 20-minute drive got us right to the center of the capital, a city of low hills surrounding a bay and spreading tidily inland in residential waves.  The highways had expanded to three lanes but the bustle was manageable and parking was not difficult to procure even though the downtown streets were narrow, in the way the European city streets are.

Thus commenced our only major urban hike of the trip.  With somewhat blind luck we managed to park only a block from the main pedestrian downtown network, and Jen had just enough Icelandic coins to procure us parking until 1 pm (and still leave one coin for our family foreign coin collection).

Zoe in front of the Hallgrímskirkja

Reykjavik is a fine walking city.  We followed cobblestone streets past food stands and souvenir shops, plus plenty of restaurants and bars that didn’t look like they would start stirring for another few hours.   After experiencing relatively infrequent eating options for most of the trip, we were facing a potentially paralyzing wealth of lunch options as well as shopping spots.  Fortunately, we had a few goals in mind to help focus us.  One was find a Christmas ornament (the traditional family gift we buy ourselves when we travel to new places).  The other was to sample the fish and chips here — reportedly an extra-fresh, extra-delicious experience in this cold-water port.

This street was painted to look like a track meet

With a 1 pm parking deadline hanging over our heads (and then a 2:30 pm Covid test to get to after that), could we take care of all this business?

Well, despite the fact that the pedestrian section of downtown Reykjavik has surprsingly more ground to cover than we expected, we are happy to say: “Missions Accomplished!”

Taste testing fish and chips — the winner is…101 Reykjavik street food, by a nose.

We even had enough time to visit two fish and chips establishments and hold a taste test.  We put Rick Steves’ favored version against that of another outlet we passed in our amblings.  Reykjavik Fish gave an impressive amount of thick cod, that it advertised as being fresh daily.  It also costed about $4 more, but it had Rick’s blessing.  In the other corner was 101 Reykjavik Street Food.  Portion size was smaller, but so was the price tag.  The crust on the fish was crumblier but very tasty.  In the end, it came down to the potatoes.  101 Reykjavik Street Food had crispier fries, and thus edged its way into the Pavlik family fish and chips endorsement.

Aaah. Gelato

(Note: Nadia passed on fish and had a waffle for lunch.)

Having taken care of this buisness, and having adequately covered the quaint streets of old Reykjavik, we picked up some gelato on our way back to the car.  Then, it was time to hurdle the Covid test.  It took about half an hour from when we walked in the door of the clinic, but when we walked out we were certified Corona-free.

Next was dropping off the rental car (and taking advantage of the free coffee maker, which was no longer in cleaning mode).  Then navigating the airport and sliding into our seats.

Check out the icebergs around Greenland.

It was an uneventful flight, with the exception some cool views of icebergs off Greenland.

After that, it was only a matter of Jen finding a suitable implement to scratch the coating off Iceland on the kitchen table map.

The Pavlik family 2021 Iceland  trip is now officially complete.

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