Author Archives: Jen

Day 1: Planes, trains, buses, and bikes

Things have started off very auspiciously for our

Scandinavian trip.  Starting at 2:30pm yesterday, we managed to successfully connect one bus (to the airport), two flights (to Iceland then to Copenhagen), a train to Sweden, and a bus to the seaside.  We succeeded in wrangling all our baggage into one checked bag (a large backpack), and five “personal items”, in order to avoid the

Triumphant arrival in Ahus

outrageous baggage fees charged by Play Airlines.  (We were a little nervous about the personal items, but we all managed, with some difficulty, to shove them into the sizing check slot.  Jury is still out on whether we’ll be able to pull this off again for the trip home.)  A mere 20 hours of so after leaving our house, we were stepping off the bus in Ahus.  The sun was shining and the air was crisp and cool.

 

We’re in Ahus visiting our dear friend (and Lanie’s violin teacher) Louise, who grew up here and is back visiting for the summer.  She and her parents have already, in the span of less than a day, given us a tremendous amount of delicious food and warm hospitality.  Louise has much to show us and is not one to let the grass grow under her feet, so after a quick welcome meal she showed us to the five bikes that

Church tour with Jurgen

she’d managed to borrow from neighbors, and we set off to explore the town.  After a long travel day, it was wonderful riding through the sunshine on the picturesque, bike-friendly streets.  (The biking presented a bit of difficulty for vertically-challenged Lanie, but she soon became a pro at getting the bike started even when her feet couldn’t reach the ground.)

Louise’s family has lived her for generations, and she had a story to tell about almost every building we passed.  We

Absolut Home

got a behind-the scenes tour of the town’s church, which dates from 1160, from Louise’s friend Jurgen.  We saw the harbor front, and the town square, and the Absolut Factory, which is right in the center of town.  (Alas, there were no English language tours that met our schedule.)  We saw the ancient ruins in the middle of town, which the enterprising Ahusians have turned into an open air cafe.  We went to one of the three beaches in town, and walked out on a long, long pier and dipped our toes (only our toes) in the frigid water — frigid even by our NH standards, though there were a few brave swimmers.  (Zoe considered going for a swim.  She was deterred not by the water temperature, but by the multitude of jellyfish that floated through the lagoon.  Louise thought they weren’t the stinging kind, but was not totally positive about it.)  We located our quaint B&B, right near the waterfront, and got ourselves checked in.  After a night on the plane with very little sleep, we really didn’t think we’d still be going strong at this point, but Louise is a bundle of energy and fortunately it proved to be contagious.

Having squeezed in pretty much everything we could for the

Meatball production

day, we headed back to the Kandles’ house for dinner.  Louise and her mother spent all day yesterday preparing a Swedish meatball feast, and everything was delicious.  We all ate way too much.  SInce it was now after 9pm, Louise decided we’d have to hold off on the Swedish yard games, but it’s good to have something to look forward to tomorrow.

Death march, DC-style

We’ve got to give Lanie credit for being a trouper on this vacation.  Without any sisters as moderating influences, she’s been left to bear the full brunt of Bob’s and my travel style.  Today was another day of miles and miles of walking, punctuated with various monuments, museums, and the occasional snack.

We said goodbye to Kathleen and her lovely family this morning and headed into the city for a couple of days at an airbnb on Capitol Hill.  Normally we avoid driving into cities like the plague, but this time we really couldn’t avoid it.  Some may recall an unfortunate episode last time we were in DC, where we failed to read some signs carefully enough and our car got towed to a random nearby street and we had to wander blindly around until we found it.  The issue was that on certain streets at rush hour, the parking lane gets turned into a travel lane.  This time we reaped the benefit of that system, since we arrived just after rush hour so there was still copious parking right on the National Mall.

We started out with monuments — Washington, World War II, Lincoln, Vietnam, Korea.  All of them were flooded with giant mobs of middle school students, but at least we didn’t run into any of our own town’s middle school students.  There were also a large number of Korean people trying to hand us brochures about Jesus.  We weren’t sure whether they’re always at the Mall, or whether they were there specially because the president of South Korea is visiting this week.  But despite the crowds and the Jesus pamphlets, it’s an inspiring feeling to stand at the feet of Lincoln and read the words of the Gettysburg Address carved in marble on the wall.

Some cool stuff we saw at the American History museum: A piece of the original Woodstock stage, C3PO & R2D2, and Jill Biden’s inauguration outfit complete with matching mask.

With some time left on our meter (and the car still accounted for), we started the round of museums.  The great thing about the museums here is that, in addition to being uniformly stunning, they’re all free — so you can make just a quick visit without feeling like you’re wasting money.  Lanie’s top choices were Natural History and Art, but we decided to make a quick stop at the American History museum as we were passing, since Kathleen had recommended it.  This was a very cool museum!  And not at all what we expected.  We saw the original (huge) flag that inspired the national anthem, and the collection of First Lady dresses.  But most of the other exhibits we saw had to do with pop culture, science, and technology.  They were very well designed to draw you in and we ended up spending a lot more time here than we expected (but still not nearly enough to see everything, which was the theme of all the museums we visited).

After a trek back to the car to refill the meter, we retraced our steps yet again to head to Natural History and Art.  We were running out of steam a bit by this point, so we really didn’t begin to make a dent in all the offerings.  I think it would take a month of daily visits to fully appreciate even one of these museums.  But with our energy and our parking meter both running low, and a notification that our airbnb was ready for us, we headed back to the car and made the fortunately uneventful drive to Capitol Hill.

Our Capitol Hill neighborhood

What a gorgeous neighborhood this is!  Quaint brownstones, colorful townhouses, flowering trees, brick walkways — and we even got a parking space.  An hour or two to relax before meeting our niece Kelsey for dinner was just what we needed.

We met Kelsey at Eastern Market, just a few minutes’ walk from our apartment.  This was another great area, with cute shops and restaurants in a pedestrian-friendly block.  We were sufficiently recovered to stroll around for a while before settling down for some Italian food and later, cookies.  It was an early night, but the death march continues tomorrow.

Day 1: A Nibble at the Big Apple

Bagels on the New York Public Library terrace

It’s spring break and we’re on the road again.  Or at least 3/5 of us are.  Zoe and Nadia are focused on wrapping up their semesters and preparing for finals, but the rest of us decided to head south.  Lanie never got to go on her 8th grade trip to DC due to Covid, and we have beloved friends and family in the area who we haven’t seen in way too long, so that’s our primary destination.

Unfortunately the first requirement for a road trip is a car, and we have encountered some challenges in this area.  We expected to take our “new” car (a seven-year-old Honda Fit) but after a deer collision in late January we are STILL waiting

You can go stand on that little triangular platform up there! On a glass floor! And they make you pay money to do it!

Inside the library

for repairs to be completed (local readers, avoid Midway Collision!)  The trusty old minivan has acquired a distinctive aroma after Bob spilled some kind of weird lamp oil in there a couple of years ago — plus we had loaned it to Zoe at Easter so she would have room to move herself out of her apartment at the end of the semester.  This left us with the kid car — a 90s-era Pontiac Vibe with close to 200,000 miles and a lack of such modern features as power locks and power windows.  We figured that even if it made the trip successfully, we’d be taking years off its life.  So, we’re traveling in a Nissan Sentra rental car with Maine plates.  (The guy at Enterprise said, “Well, it’s better than if people thought you were from Massachusetts!”  Massachusetts drivers don’t have the best reputation.)

 

Library BeReal

Our first stop was a visit to Nadia, who is conveniently on the way.  We picked her up late on Friday and headed to an airbnb in Mount Vernon, which is between where she lives (in Pleasantville) and the city.  There were a lot of logistical complications involving getting her back home again on the train and having a place to park our car, so this seemed like the best solution.  It turned out to be a great spot — spacious and easy to get to, with easy parking and a 15-minute walk to the Metro North to take us into the city on Saturday.

Jamon Iberica at Mercado Little Spain

Our first mission was coffee and bagels, which we accomplished without too much trouble.  Luckily we found ourselves right by the NYC Public Library, so we ate in the little park there and then took a quick trip inside.  I love the Hogwarts-style reading rooms and the ornate ceilings.  The girls particularly loved the gift shop.  We came out with a couple of posters in a cardboard tube (which would later provide a fun challenge to protect as we walking long distances in pouring rain).

We made our way over to Hudson Yards to meet our friend Justin for lunch.  This is a large mall-type area with very high end stores.  Luckily Zoe, never a big fan of shopping, did not have to suffer through it.  The other girls enjoyed a little browsing even though there was zero chance that we’d be making any purchases.  We had lunch at a cool place called Mercado Spain, with lots of kiosks selling different types of Spanish foods.  We tried a fancy kind of Jamon (apparently from pigs that ate only acorns or something like that), sandwiches, Spanish pizza, churros, and some desserts.  It was a great success apart from when I tried to order horchata as a treat for us to share, and was instead given a tiny cup of espresso (“cortado”).

It was a lovely spring day and we spent some time walking the High Line park with Justin and his wife Robyn, enjoying the sunshine despite the mobs of people.  We got down as far as Little Island, the quirky new park built entirely on concrete tulip-like supports (see photo at top).  Zoe and I came here in December and had the place pretty much to ourselves, but today it was wall to wall people.  We persevered and fought our way to the top for views across the water and to the Statue of Liberty.

Near the top of Little Island Park

We can always count on Justin, a born and bred New Yorker, to show us something that we never would have found on our own.  This time it was a “sample sale” (a misleading name, according to Justin) for jewelry.  You had to be on a special mailing list to get an invitation, but fortunately Justin and Robyn frequent lots of these sales so they brought us along.  We had to check our bags then go up to a big room, empty except for a large square jewelry counter in the center.  They broke us into pairs and assigned us each our own salesperson, who followed us around on the other side of the counter, helping us look at and try on anything that interested us.  The jewelry was beautiful, and 70% off the sticker price — but however good a deal it was, 70% off of four-figure jewelry was still not something the Pavlik familly was likely to purchase.  Nadia and I had a whispered consultation on whether it was more polite to just breeze by and not look at anything, or to give our jewelry minders false hope by trying on jewelry that we had no hope of purchasing.  Luckily we eventually found some more reasonably-priced items that we were at least willing to try on.  (Our salespeople then followed us around hopefully with them on a velvet tray as we finished our circuit.)  I had to talk Nadia out of a $200 necklace, but Bob and Lanie did make a secret purchase that I think I may see next month.  Regardless it was an interesting experience that we definitely have never had before.

We said goodbye to Justin and Robyn and headed to an old favorite, Kung Fu Kitchen noodle house, also recommended by Justin.  We had a little time between dinner and our entertainment for the evening, the Broadway show Peter Pan Goes Wrong.  We mostly filled this time with a frustrating and ultimately fruitless search for a public bathroom near Times Square.

Before things go wrong for the Peter Pan crew

Bob and I saw The Play That Goes Wrong last summer and laughed ourselves silly, so we were thrilled to find tickets to this sister production that just opened a couple of weeks ago.  And for the first few weeks it is featuring guest star Neil Patrick Harris!  We all laughed for two hours straight, while admiring the amazing talents of the cast and crew.

By the time we got out, the rain had begun.  It should have been a fairly quick walk back to Grand Central, but (a) we went the wrong direction, and (b) I was attempting to shield our posters by keeping the long stiff cardboard tube beneath my raincoat, which greatly hampered any kind of quick movement.  (Lanie, who was the one who had bought the posters, found this all very amusing.)  Luckily through some good luck and superhuman effort we made the 10:38 train with about five seconds to spare.  Less luckily, it was still raining when we got back to Mount Vernon and had to face the 15-minute walk back to our place.  Let’s just say that moods had soured a bit by that point.  But we made it eventually and as far as I am aware the posters are still dry (which is more than you can say for our shoes).

 

 

 

Summing up

We’ve had a few people ask us the details of our itinerary, so I’m listing it here.  Most of the credit goes to Rick Steves, whose suggested path we followed pretty faithfully.  We added in a few stops and took out a few others (mostly museums), and we didn’t visit too many of his recommended lodgings or restaurants (mostly due to price and/or availability), but we drove the route he told us to drive and slept in the towns he told us to overnight in.

And we all agreed that we would do it pretty much the same way again.  I don’t think there was anything on this list that we would skip, and not much we feel we missed out on either.  Most of the places we visited were right on the main route, with ample free parking, bathrooms, well laid-out paths, and informative sign boards.  Everything was clean and safe, and everyone was friendly and helpful.

Not what you would call a LOT of extra space

Our itinierary did involve a lot of driving, but the driving was so scenic that it could often be considered an attraction in and of itself.  Our full-sized sedan managed to fit five of us, plus all our stuff, in semi-comfort, and the middle-seat-rotation system that we worked out with the girls prevented too much strife in the back seat.

Making it all the way around the ring in 9 days meant staying on the move.  We spent only one night in each place, except for Lake Myvatn, where we stayed one extra night to see the many attractions in the area.

We stayed mostly in guest houses, which are kind of a cross between a hostel and a hotel.  We had our own room or rooms, but usually shared a bathroom and had access to shared kitchen facilities.  This proved to be valuable since restaurants in Iceland are so expensive, and for occasions where we were too late/too tired to go out.

Of course this involved a spreadsheet

This was an excellent destination during Covid times.  Iceland’s vaccine rate is very high and Covid rate was low (though this was starting to change towards the end of our trip).  Vaccinated Americans (as of this time) can enter the country without needing to test or quarantine.  To get back to the US, we had to present a negative Covid test, but Iceland simplified this by having a rapid test site (15 minute results) right next to the airport.  We spent the vast majority of our time outside — for the most part, we were only indoors in our hotel room (we even ate mostly outside) — so our exposure risk was low in any case.

For most of our trip, we were able to almost forget about the pandemic.  Other than hand sanitizer prominently displayed at the entrances to many hotels and restaurants, there didn’t seem to be many precautions in place.  But in the last couple of days, we saw a change — more masks and more caution.  We’re not sure if this is because we were in the more populous capital area, or because the state of things had worsened during our week.

Day 1: Keflavik airport to Borgarnes

Day 2: Borgarnes to Siglufjordur

  • Hraunfossar & Barnafossar waterfalls
  • Haalfell Goat Farm 
  • Grabrok Volcano Crater hike
  • Stroll around Siglufjordur
  • Lodging: Herring House guesthouse

Day 3: Siglufjordur to Lake Myvatn

  • Akureyri – botanic garden & walk; lunch
  • Godafoss falls 
  • Namafjall Geothermal Area 
  • Krafla Geothermal Valley
  • Leirhnjukur Volcanic Cone hike
  • Viti Crater
  • Lodging: Elda Guesthouse

Day 4: Around Lake Myvatn

All the attractions below except the nature baths are on a loop right around the lake.  I was originally hoping to do this by bike, but we were daunted when we saw the narrow, shoulderless road and fast-moving traffic.  It was just as well, since we encountered a fair amount of rain in the afternoon and ended up not having a lot of extra time (partly due to our kids’ chronic inability to get up early in the morning).

  • Hverfall Crater rim hike

    The Old Hospital was the loveliest place we stayed.

  • Dimmuborgir Lava Formations
  • Hofoi Promontory
  • Skutustadir Pseudocraters
  • Myvatn Nature Baths
  • Lodging: Elda Guesthouse

Day 5: Lake Myvatn to Seydisfjordur

  • Horseback ride at Safari Stables
  • Dentifoss Falls
  • Rjukandafoss waterfall
  • Stroll around Seydisfjordur town & lagoon
  • Lodging: Halfadan Old Hospital Hostel

Day 6: Seydisfjordur to south of Hofn

  • Roadside stop at unnamed pebble beach
  • Jökulsárlón Iceberg Lagoon
  • Fjallsárlón Iceberg Lagoon boat tour on Zodiac raft
  • Diamond Beach
  • Lodging: Gerdi Guesthouse

Day 7: South of Hofn to Hafnarfjörður (Reykjavik suburb)

  • Skaftafell Natl Park 
  • Reynisfjara Beach
  • Seljalandsfoss waterfall
  • Lodging: T10 hotel

(We intended to stop at the Lava Center museum at the end of the day — Rick Steves claimed it was open late — but found that it unfortunately had closed at 4.)

Day 8: Hafnarfjörður to Keflavik airport

  • Downtown Reykjavik
  • Covid test
  • Flight home!

 

Coming full circle

It’s hard to believe it’s already our last full day in Iceland.  Making it all the way around the island has made for a pretty busy schedule, but our Rick Steves Iceland book has not led us astray and there’s really nothing we would have skipped or done differently.  It’s been a lot of driving, but the scenery has been so incredible throughout that we don’t really mind (despite the unnerving lack of guardrails).

Last night we stayed at a guest house in a pretty remote area on the southeast coast — our room even had a view of the chilly, gray ocean.  As we set out today down the lonely road, with mile after mile of nothing but mountains, ocean, and the occasional sheep, we started to get a bit worried about where we might next find a gas station.  Fortunately when I was finally able to get phone reception and ask Google, Google managed to materialize one literally about a quarter mile down the road.  (There was a little difficulty about the shared payment kiosk and Bob accidentally paid for the gas of some French person, but luckily the French person was nice about it and handed him a wad of cash to compensate.)

Puffins in flight

Relieved of our worry that we might need to hitchhike to Reykjavik, we were able to enjoy our visit toSkaftafell National Park.  It was a raining for much of our drive today and threatened to start again anytime, so we contented ourselves with a short and easy hike to get up close to one of the tongues of the glacier.  We were rewarded with lots of wildflowers and another remote iceberg lagoon.

Our next stop was the spectacular Reynisfjara Beach, with its pebbly black sand, amazing rock formations, and abundant bird life — including a colony of puffins nestled in the rocks high above us.  The sky was full of hundreds of wheeling birds — graceful ones that glided smoothly through the air, and madly flapping puffins with their short wings and red feet.  The beach had towering basalt rock columns (perfect for climbing) and intricately shaped caves. It was also one of the most crowded places we’ve been — we’re definitely noticing the difference it makes being within day-trip distance of Reykjavik.

Lastly there was one more waterfall.  We’ve been talking about how we’ve seen so many waterfalls here, but all of them have been different.  Today’s was a tall, delicate stream falling straight down over a concave area, allowing you to walk around behind it.

By evening we’d made it to our hotel in the suburbs of Reykjavik.  It’s in kind of a weird area — sort of light industrial — and did not look particularly appealing from the outside.  But our room is surprisingly nice, with hardwood floors, ample space, a couch, refrigerator, and our own bathroom.  We made a quick trip to the nearly Noodle Station for dinner (a local chain with only one thing on the menu — Vietnamese noodle soup) and a trip to the town center on the waterfront in search of ice cream, and the evening was complete.  Tomorrow we explore Reykjavik for a few hours, then it’s off to get ourmandated Covid test en route to the airport.

Excellent views with a side of terror

You can see us trotting happily along before things turned terrifying.

As Bob mentioned yesterday, we ended up canceling our 4 pm horseback ride due to the rain (which my iPhone told me was going to last for hours, but which actually cleared up about two minutes after I made the phone call).  All was not lost, however, because we had a little extra time this morning and were able to squeeze in a 10 am ride before hitting the road.

Bob elected to skip this one, which was probably for the best.  We meandered through stunning scenery, until we rounded a bend and found ourselves right on the edge of the lake — or, I should say, quite a long ways above the lake, with a very narrow path and a sheer drop off to our right.  Our guide told us we were riding on the edge of a pseudocrater, which is a large, round bump that was formed long ago by bubbles in lava flows.  Nadia and I were both very concerned

The walk to Detifoss, through cool rock formations.

about our horses taking a wrong step and plunging us down the slope into the waters far below, but fortunately they handled it like pros.  This was not a trail that would be considered suitable for beginners in the U.S.  (“No one has ever fallen off,” the woman who runs the farm later told me cheerfully.  “If they did, we probably would not go there anymore.”)  My midge-proof head net, which was actually necessary for the first time, blew off my head and I barely even noticed.

We were also supposed to experience the “tolt”, which is a special gait unique to Icelandic horses.  It’s kind of like a trot but supposedly much smoother and more comfortable for riding.  I was very skeptical about this, because I found it plenty bumpy, but the kids later told me that my horse was rebelliously trotting rather than doing the tolt.  Between the cliff ride and the trotting, I spent most of the ride holding onto the saddle with both hands like grim death.

 

After thanking our horses and our guides, and a quick visit to a week-old baby horse that our hostess was kind enough to introduce us to, we hit the road again.  Today we made our way from the inland lake back out to the east coast, to an area called the Eastfjords.  All along our route, you could barely turn your head without seeing a spectacular waterfall.  The most spectacular of all, Detifoss, was a bit off our route, but well worth the detour.  Google tells me it’s the most powerful waterfall in Europe, and this is easy to believe.  Just a short walk down the road is another large waterfall, Selfoss — somewhat less powerful, but probably even more beautiful.  We’ve been really struck by all the different waterfalls we’ve seen here — from massive, thundering falls to tall, lacy cascades.

Seydisfjordur

We had to cross another high mountain pass on our way to our destination, Seydisfjorder.  All our drives have been pretty breathtaking, but this one probably takes the prize.  What with the steep drops and lack of guardrails, despite the beauty it was a relief to drop back down to this quaint little fjord-side town.

We loved Seydisfjorder — a tiny, colorful village at the innermost point of the fjord, surrounded on three sides by high mountains streaked with waterfalls — from first glance.  Our hostel is called the Old Hospital, and is in a beautifully restored historic building.  There is a sauna in the basement and white-capped mountains towering outside our windows.  We were almost disappointed to not be cooking dinner tonight, when we saw the lovely kitchen and dining areas on the first floor.

Luckily (especially since the grocery was closed) we actually managed to eat inside a restaurant for the first time on the whole trip.  (Normally this would be because Bob and I are being cheap — the food here is VERY expensive — but really, this time around we’ve tried several times and been foiled for one reason or another.)  A short stroll around the town and its lagoon, and we’re ready to call it a night. Onward and southward tomorrow!

Waterfalls, gardens, volcanos, and a big lake

View of Akureyri from possibly the world’s most scenicly located gas station

To make it all the way around Iceland in the course of our week here, we have to keep on the move almost every day.  We’ve been hampered a bit by our seeming inability to get up at a reasonable hour of the morning.  My assumption going in was that Bob and I would be up bright and early, ready to go for a stroll and maybe work on our blog before the kids arose.  But our sleep schedules haven’t quite arranged themselves, and we’ve been sleeping late too.  Competition for bathrooms (we’ve been staying in guesthouses with a shared bath) has also slowed down our morning progress.  So once again it was close to 11:00 before we managed to hit the road from Siglufjordur.

 

Strolling above the fjiord in Akureyri

After a quick stop for coffee and pastries at what was billed as “Iceland’s most popular bakery”, we were again on our way. Our progress down the winding roads was sped up a bit by two very long tunnels, burrowing deep through the mountains that line the fjords.

Our first stop was the cut little city of Akureyri — Iceland’s second largest city (though that’s not saying much).  We took a stroll through the charming streets and up the steps to the art deco church.  At this point we were high above the fjord, with the sweeping views that are the norm here.  After a stroll through the botanic garden and some delicious grilled sandwiches in the town square, we were ready to move on.

Godafoss Falls

Next stop: Godafoss Falls, yet another impressive waterfall right along the main Ring Road.  Iceland has done an excellent job with these roadside attractions — there are lots of paths leading to different viewpoints above and below the falls, and the option to descend down to a black sand beach near the base.  There’s a footbridge over the river to allow views of the horseshoe-shaped falls from both sides.  (We had to wait to cross it to allow the large group of horses to be marshalled across.)  Zoe would have stayed here all day if she had the option, and watching the powerful falls was mesmerizing.

Our route has now taken us away from the coast, to our next destination at Lake Myvatn.  After a quick stop to check in at our guest house near the lake, we headed a bit further along the road to the nearby geothermal and volcanic area.  (Even when we get a late start, we can get a lot of sightseeing in since it barely gets dark here.  In fact, I haven’t seen darkness at all — even when I was awake at 2:15am last night.)

The Namafjall Geothermal Area is the Icelandic Yellowstone — steaming craters, boiling mud pits, dazzling colors, and choking sulphurous air.  It’s not nearly as crowded or developed as Yellowstone, though, and you can get up as close to these attractions as your nose can bear.

A little further up the road is the Krafla Geothermal Valley.  The first interesting site you come across is a functioning shower in a parking lot in the middle of nowhere.  No one seems to know who erected it, but it’s hooked up to the geothermal spring beneath it and seems to be perfect showering temperature.  Continuing along past the huge geothermal power plant located here, we came to the Leirhnjukur Volcanic Cone.  This provided an amazing hike.  The crater itself was pretty impressive, but we were able to continue past it into the lava fields that stretched out as far as we could see.  The lighting always seems to be very  dramatic here, with lowering clouds and occasional bursts of sunbeams, and we could see forever in every direction.  We spent a lot longer here than we planned, but we couldn’t drag ourselves away.

There was one more stop along the same road — Viti Crater.  This is yet another crater, this one containing a bright blue lake, that Iceland has helpfully built a hiking trail all around.  However, the day was getting late and some of the troops were growing mutinous, so we contented ourselves with

Viti Crater

walking the fifty feet from the car to the crater’s edge, having a quick look at the lake, then retreating back to our guest house.  It made for another late dinner, but fortunately we’d learned our lesson in Siglufjordur and secured provisions from the nearby grocery before heading out.  The girls produced a delicious pesto alfredo pasta from the guest house kitchen, and all was well.

Starting off with a bang

    We’re in Iceland!  It’s strange and amazing to have been able to take an airplane somewhere.  And Iceland seems to have been a great choice.  I read yesterday that their full vaccination rate is over 85%, so we’re safer here than at home.  And after showing our own vaccination cards at the airport, we’ve been free to roam the country without tests or quarantining.

It was only a 4.5 hour flight to get here.  We were a little nervous that all the pieces would fall into place, but the whole process was very smooth.  Despite our worries, our carry-ons were not declared to be oversize or overweight.  (Checked bags cost $60 each way, so we relied heavily on carry-ons.)  They invited us to check them for free, so we didn’t even have to fight for space in the overhead compartments.  We took off from Boston right on time at 8:50 pm, and barely had time to close our eyes before touching down in Iceland at 5:15 am (1:15 am NH time).  Our bags appeared quickly and before we knew it we were behind the wheel of our rental car.

Our normal strategy when flying overnight to Europe is to power through the first day then go to bed early and sleep for 12+ hours, then wake up at a normal time and (hopefully) be done with jet lag.  Iceland made this very easy for us to do.  Two of our top destinations were close to the airport, so those were planned for Day 1.

After fortifying ourselves with ham and cheese croissants and coffee from a 24-7 gas station (the nearby cafes and grocery store unaccountably not opening until 11am), we set off into the Keflavik countryside in search of the Fagradalsfjall volcano.  This has been erupting since March of this year, and we’ve been enthralled watching youtube videos of fountains of orange lava splashing above the cone, and lava rivers spilling into the adjacent valleys.  The eruptions have been slowing down lately, with long periods of relative inactivity, so we were crossing our fingers that our timing would be lucky.

When your plane lands at 5:15 am, you tend to beat the crowds.  There were only a few cars in the parking lot when we arrived, and we were not entirely sure we were in the right place.  Iceland and some nearby landowners have built walking trails around the volcano to allow for viewing access (and new routes have been constructed a few times, as old ones are overtaken by lava flows.  We geared up in all our warm layers, plus hats and gloves (it’s pretty cold here, especially early in the morning!) and set off down the trail with a few other early birds.

Soon a large lava field came into view, with black lava coming over the nearby hills and stretching across the valley.  The scenery was beautiful even if there was no volcano at all — otherworldly mountains stretched out in either direction, and the gray ocean spread out behind us.  There were no trees to block our view.  And, after hiking an hour or so, we summitted a small peak and were rewarded with a view of orange lava flying up and splashing down into a distant crater.

After a few minutes of observations and pictures, we continued up the next (very steep) peak and lost our view of the lava for a while.  We continued on and on, and still — no lava.  Eventually we realized that the morning’s eruption had stopped.  We regretted the extra minutes we’d spent at the gast station and in the parking lot, which prevented us from getting a close-up view — but were very happy that we’d gotten to see it at all.  We continued hiking quite a ways further — rewarded with the sight of orange lava flowing down a distant hillside — but the volcano didn’t start up again during the next couple of hours before we left.  By the time we were on our way out the paths were thick with tourists, so we hope that they evetually got rewarded.  (Also, alas, the old lava flows that we were able to access were not hot enough to roast marshmallows over, as we’d seen others do on youtube.)

The view from our lodging

Next stop: the nearby and world-famous Blue Lagoon.  Things are less crowded than usual this year, so we were able to give them a call and head straight over there without waiting for our reservation time.  The warm, mineral-rich waters were just what our tired legs needed and felt wonderful against the chilly air.  The sun had emerged, and it was blinding in the whitish waters of the lagoon.  It was a somewhat pricy excursion (except for Lanie, who scraped by under the policy that 13 and under is free), but we enjoyed our included silica mud mask treatments and “free” drink at the swim-up bar.  (Bob and I sampled Gull, a local beer, after the people in line in front of us warned us against the cider being too sweet — and were not impressed.)

Then it just remained for us to make the hour and a half drive to our first night’s destination in Borgarnes.  We’ve taking a week to drive the Ring Road around the perimeter of the country, so we wanted to get a slight head start rather than staying near the airport.  After a night of no sleep, a long hike, and a soothing soak, it was a little challenging to stay alert, but we made it.  We unanimously agreed to skip finding a restaurant and instead visited a Bonus supermarket along the way for frozen ready-to-eat meals as well as breakfast provisions.

Soon we had driven down a gravel path, past roadside sheep and ponies, and were ensconced at our airbnb, a farm right on the ocean across an inlet from the city of Borgarnes.  Most of us were in bed by 7pm.  (And then briefly up a little while later, when Zoe awoke at 9:30pm and thought it was 9:30am.  It stays light almost around the clock here, so it’s hard to assess the time.)

Trails of Durham: April edition

April 3: We see two bald eagles on the Durham Greenway

Given that we’ve been stuck pretty much in the same place for over a year, it’s tempting to wish ourselves somewhere else.  But, really, we’ve got everything we need right here.  Look at all the great hiking experiences with in few miles of our house.

AND LOOK AT THESE TWO BALD EAGLES WE SAW ON OUR MORNING WALK TO THE TOWN LANDING THIS MORNING!

No, that’s not Alaska.  That’s the two tallest trees looming over the Three Chimneys Inn.  The two tallest trees looming over the Three Chimneys Inn were each adorned with it own bald eagle this morning, and we were there to witness it.

It was not the first time we saw a bald eagle on our walk along the Durham Greenway, but it was the first time we, or probably anybody else, saw two awesome bald eagles standing out in full relief against the light blue morning sky over our town, which is in New Hampshire and not Colorado, or somewhere else where one might expect to see such a thing.

God Bless America.

 

 

April 18: Moharimet Woods/Powder Major Trails 

Technically, this walk is not in our back yard, but major portions of today’s hike were extremely familiar.  We have had an association with Moharimet Elementary school since at least 2006, when Zoe started kindergarten there.  I currently walk a portion of the trails every day (at least twice) for work.  I was able to show off some the trees kindergartners and I identified and tagged last fall.

Then we hit the portion of the walk — leading up to and circumnavigating Tibbets Field — that were part of the high school cross country course when Zoe was an underclassman.  The U10 girls soccer team that was practicing did not seem to notice us as we went by.

After that, we entered the woods on the far side of the fields for some unexplored territory.  The Powder Major Trails are pleasantly flat, sufficiently wooded, and wonderously complex.  That is to say that beyond  three or four marked trials the property is honeycombed with seemingly dozens of paths.  Many of them beckon exploration.

They also seem to defy explanation.  Is this an snowmobile park?  Was there a neighborhood here in colonial times?  Was this land once worked by generations OCD farmers?  How many people are at this moment wandering the side trails of the Powder Major Perseve, trying to find their way out?

Fortunately for us, the map we have in the Trails of Durham folder shows some of this intricacy.  We noticed all the lines and made firm plans to stay on the yellow-blazed trail that follows the perimeter of the preserve;  we would stick to the yellow trail even if presented a whole field of poppies.

So we were alright.

Though there was a left turn that promised exposure to even deeper, darker Madbury.  Who knows what was waiting in that direction.  Maybe even Lee.  It will have to wait for another hike.

We stuck to our plans, and, despite all the trails we did not walk down, we still managed to rack up a four-mile loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

April 24: John Hatch Park/snow mobile trails/Audubon Society preserve

Local hiking does not get the attention it deserves from the extreme sporting community.   Not only is there addictive thrill of seeing what’s behind the next turn.  There’s also the not-entirely-uncommon threats to life and liberty — actual threats to actual life and actual liberty — that we encounter on the trail.  Within the past year we’ve verbally threatened with gun violence for wandering on the wrong trail.  It’s a trail we won’t be wandering on again.

Mostly, though, the threats come in written form, like the sign we saw along the banks of the Lamprey River.  The sign was near a gate and a fence that not only blocked our path but extended all the way down to the river.  Someone was taking no chances that we might ignore the sign that promised prosecution or death if we followed the pleasant trail east towards Packer’s Falls, impinging, I guess, on someone’s back yard.

That was on the north bank of the river.  Having crossed the dam and followed a similar trail on the south bank we eventually came to another sign.  This one merely posted no trespassing sentiments and forewent threats and fences.  We turned around here, too, giving us a little more time along the lovely river as we headed back to dam.  Here’s one more view of the inviting island, free of No Trespassing signs, that we would like to storm and claim for wanderers everywhere — as soon as we can sew up a flag and as soon as the river level drops enough that we can hop the rocks across.

Property rights are property rights, and I’m not really interested in finding out how vaild those threats are, but this was not going to get us to the 3.5 mile goal my phone app was expecting.   Luckily, we are good at noticing things, and we’re often ready for adventure.  So when a well-worn path departed from the bank, and when we looked and did not see any No Trespassing signs, we decided to follow it for a while.

Here we got into “just around the corner” mode, and we found ourselves in an extensive forest.  Portions had recently been harvested for timber, but they were not clearcut.  We still felt like we were in the woods, under a nice canopy, but we could see for quite a distance between the sparse tree trunks and follow the rocky landscape for a fair distance in all directions.

The path turned into a network of snowmobile trails punctuated by a few traffic signs nailed to trees.  Jen went on her phone to find out when we’d come to a street, or to a building with a no-trespassing sign, but things looked pretty empty for quite a while on her phone map.

Talk about adventure!

We enjoyed a nice walk through this thinned forest, but we did not encounter any boundaries — or any other hikers.   We turned around with plans of returning sometime soon to try to see around a few more corners of these trails.   On the way back, we notice a few signs announcing the boundary of an Audubon Society preserve, but it was not clear if we were inside the boundary or outside of it.  There sure was a lot of land around.

When we made it back to the car, we had not only had our hearts full of extreme sports and adventure, we also reached our mileage goal.  All was right with the world.

April 30: Marion J. Stolworthy Wildlife Sanctuary/Merrick Conservation Easement

Once more on familiar grounds, we stomped our way through two seprate trail areas in one morning’s walk.  Parking in an Oyster River High School parking lot emptied by April Break, we had quick access to the Stolworthy preseve after short sidewalk trek along Bagdad Road.  We have walked here before, and our children certainly have spent time in this preserve.  It’s brimming with middle schoolers when school is in session.

Today was a quiet stroll, brushing against neighborhoods where so many of our friends live.  Still, you can find yourself in the middle of the woods here and not see schools or houses in any direction.  You have to be in the heart of the preserve, though; and you have to ignore clues like the carpet of virginia creeper, or the overgrown Japanese holly bushes, if you want to imagine you’re not practically in someone’s back yard.

It was quite interesting and different to come upon so many domesticated plants in a wild setting.  Daffodils and hyacinths were popping up in random clumps.  There is a patch of pulmonaria like the one in our garden.  Myrtle stretched off in several directions.

Then, we looked up and saw the imposing wall supporting the new middle school parking lot.  It does not seem like there is currently any access to the school from the trails, which makes sense, given that the school is construction site.  Hopefully, middle schoolers will be able to get into the Stolworthy again once the dust settles.

We rebounded off the wall and forked onto a side trail that led to the high school athletic fields.  Then we swerved back and found ourselves on Bagdad again.  About a quarter mile up the sidewalk, past the high school, our car, and route 4,  we found the entrance to the Merrick Conservation Easement.  From this entrance you enter the trails via a well-maintained boardwalk that keeps you out of the mud and gives a nice view of the backyards of the adjacent Nobel K. Peterson neighborhood.

The trail marked in white on the map carried us a full 3/4 of the way around the property, past  a grand view of Riverwoods Durham across route 108 and back along Canney Road.  The white trail dropped us off in a large patch of fir trees that were planted in a grid formation, perhaps by someone intending to sell them as Christmas trees a long time ago.  A spooky, tunnel-like trail led through the heart of this grove, and after that we were ushered on to the blue trail that led us the final 1/4 of the way around the loop.

Two loops in two parks forged into a figure eight in the heart of a lot of people’s back yards.  There wasn’t even much elevation gain, and the parking lot had plenty of spaces on a Friday morning during April break.  There really is no reason not to go walking in this town.  Unless maybe if you don’t have a dog.

Trails of Durham – March edition

It’s part 2 of our quest to walk every Durham/UNH trail in 2021!  You can read part 1 here and part 2 here.  Also, we are enjoying our ten minutes of fame after this was published in the UNH newspaper (see page 6).

Ah, March — my least favorite month.  You feel like it SHOULD be spring, but in New Hampshire it generally isn’t.  It teases you with a warm day here and there and then plunges back into cold that seems even worse by comparison.  It’s either snow and ice or rivers of mud, the ground and trees barren and gloomy.  Winter activities are either not possible or not appealing, but it’s not warm enough for much else.  But this year March gave us a bit of a break, with lots of sunshine and temperatures ranging from a little chilly to very pleasant.  In a year when we’re waiting for spring even more desperately than usual, this was much appreciated.

March 6: Doe Farm with special guest Zoe Pavlik!

We had a special treat for our walk today — Zoe was home from college for the weekend and decided to join us.  In addition to enjoying her company, it also meant we could get a rare non-selfie photo of the two of us!

This was another area where we somehow had never been before, even though it was only a couple of miles from our house.  (We did leave for our Doe Farm to Foss Farm walk from this location, but didn’t actually venture into Doe Farm itself.)  And it was another hidden gem.  The path we followed was bordered by the beautiful frozen river almost the whole way, sometimes on both sides.  We probably could have walked or skied right across the river itself, but with March and slightly warmer weather having arrived, we’ll save that adventure for next year.

 

 

The path started out along the railroad tracks, and we got to see the train go past at one point — maybe the same train Zoe will be taking to Portland tomorrow en route to Orono.  But soon we left the train tracks behind for the quiet of the woods and the river.  We barely saw another soul during our whole 3+ mile walk, other than one man who was there with a chainsaw to clear the path of trees that had fallen during the recent high winds.

We also discovered yet another lovely picnic area, complete with a picnic table and charcoal grill.  We are mentally filing away the locations of all of these areas, and are geared up for lots of outdoor socializing this summer (although we are very much hoping to be in a place where indoor socializing is also a possibility).

March 13 – Wedgewoord/Faculty/Bennett loop

With the warm temperatures earlier this week (sadly, not today), we knew we would be likely to encounter mud anywhere we chose to go.  We decided to do a long loop walk, partially on trails and partially on the roads.  AND we had heard on good authority from our friend Yvon that the new Kenny Rotner bridge is actually, really in place this time, as opposed to how things turned out on our last attempt.

The view from the new bridge

We left from our home in the Wedgewood neighborhood, starting off with our usually walk to the town landing.  From there we headed into the Faculty neighborhood and down to the site of the new bridge on Mill Pond Road.  It is a thing of beauty, and bore us safely across onto Foss Farm Road and the start of the Foss Farm trail system.  We had to start out by retracing our steps from our last time here (the missing bridge incident), but this time were traveling in reverse.  We then took the trail that we’d intended to take last time, but missed, which would lead us to Bennett Road.

We stopped a bit short of actually going onto Bennett itself — not very pedestrian-friendly — and instead walked under the power lines all the way to 108.  (We did this accidentally last time we were walking in this area; this time it was intentional.)  The power lines are built on a series of rolling hills, and we more than once found ourselves in difficulties getting through wet and marshy sections without soaking our feet.  The final culvert, just before hitting Rt. 108, was a particular challenge.  Daisy ended up wet and muddy from her belly downwards.

Anyway, we eventually made it across 108 and onto Longmarsh Road — and from there back to our starting point at home,  two hours and almost 6 miles later.  We were tempted to keep following the power lines down to Cutts and Ffrost, closer to our house — but we deterred by the marshy areas we could see (and also slightly uncertain if getting out would require us to walk through someone’s yard).  We plan to try it eventually, once we’re into a drier season.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

March 21 – Adams’ Point (Perimeter)

Great Bay is considered by many people around here to be the thing we have to drive around to get to the ocean.  That’s when people think of Great Bay at all.

I had this in mind today when I floated my theory about Adams Point being a mini-Mount Desert Island, both in shape and setting.  I was prepared for pushback.

But, really, all we could come up with to separate today’s hike from one in Acadia National Park were:

  • Almost the Precipice Trail

    No mountains here

  • No waves here
  • This place is 3 1/2 hours closer to our house.

All three are valid points, but third one made up for a good portion of the drawbacks of the first two, as we walked Adams Point this weekend.

Great Bay shone in the early-spring morning sun, and it accompanied us the entire way along the perimeter path around the point.  The water perhaps even benefitted from the calmness of the day.  It reflected the clear sky and surrounding forest almost perfectly.

Muddy trails in the field

The paths through the wooded sections unfolded in stone and pine needle carpeting, though the open field segments were quite muddy.

Adams Point is a popular spot, as the full parking lot and the bootprints in the mud can attest, but also like Acadia, it has lots of folds and nooks where people can hide themselves away and look out over the mostly un-molested surface of the bay.  (Two kayakers left from the boat launch as we were walking past, but other than them, two islands, and a bunch of water birds, Great Bay’s surface was unoccupied. )

Almost full parking lot at the boat launch

Sometimes we would glimpse a portion of someone seated among the rocks, but who knows how many people we walked past and didn’t see.  The park did not seem crowded, though both parking lots were close to capacity when we walked past.

There are more trails criss-crossing the interior of the park, but the one drawback of being so close to home is that we are closer to things we have to get back to.  No wandering all morning long like we did in the Tin Mine Conservation area.

We will get to those interior trails on another trip; today we were content to stay near the water and follow the point’s perimeter loop.  And we managed to get home before the breakfast Lanie had prepared for us had gone cold.